A few miles from Italy’s honeypot villages, but overlooked by the cruise ship tours, Framura offers tranquil hamlets and gorgeous walks, sea views and cuisine

‘For me this is the best place in the world,” says Elena Bisio, as I puff behind her up the stony path. We crest a hill known as Salto della Lepre (hare’s leap) and I have to agree the climb is worth it: from a natural terrace 200 metres high we gaze north-west over a panorama of steep slopes falling into blue sea, with villages huddled under almost vertical walls of rock, or clinging to green hillsides.

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